Устройство примыкания для битумной черепицы

Installing step flashing

The first rule of roof flashing is water runs downhill; the second rule is that the first rule isn’t without exceptions

Basic materials get the job  done: Roofing caulk, galvanized roofing nails, tin snips, and step flashing (either flat or prebent).  Installing step flashing  correctly is one of the first things I teach a new member of my crew. The first rule of flashing is that water runs downhill. The second rule of flashing is that sometimes rule No. 1 isn’t the whole truth and that water also runs uphill, as when it wicks up inside  debris or backs up behind ice. For this reason, I like to  lap all flashing by at least 2 in.

It’s important to remember that a building always is moving. If you nail step flashing to the wall and to the roof, you’re asking for trouble. Most of the time, I like to avoid putting any extra holes in the roof surface, so I nail step flashing to  the sidewall only, where both the next piece of flashing and the siding will cover the nail head. The bottom corner, where you start the course of flashing, is made from two pieces of bent step flashing lapped over each other and caulked in place.

Corner flashing comes first

Step 1:
Make corner flashing from step flashing. Once you’ve shingled up to the
sidewall, cut a piece of step flashing at a 45º angle from the outside
corner to the bent seam. Bend it down and back to sit flat on the
corner. Then sink two nails in the wall near the top, one on each face.

Step 2:
Lay a bead of sealant. Where the next piece of flashing will overlap,
apply a bead of caulk to seal the corner. This spot is prone to leaking
because there is not a full 2 in. of overlap. Use a sealant designed
for roofing. Not all caulks can withstand the heat and exposure of
being on the roof.

The flashing alternates with the shingles

Step 3:
Bend the first piece along the plumb line. The first piece of step flashing needs one bend so that it laps cleanly over the corner flashing installed in the previous step. Make sure the caulk joint between these two pieces is bedded evenly. Then sink one nail into the sidewall to hold the step flashing in place.

Step 4:
Begin the weave. With step flashing, you do a little flashing, then a
lot of roofing, then a little more flashing, and so on. Each piece of
step flashing laps over the shingle below and under the shingle above.
The bottom edge of the flashing should extend just below the nail line.
Attach each piece with a single nail high enough to be covered by the
next course of flashing, the building wrap, and the siding.

The top requires another custom piece

Step 5:
This roof ends in a peak. For the first side, cut the step flashing
along the fold line, and bend down the lower flap. Drive one nail to
hold it in place.

Step 6:
Caulk the top. Once you’ve come up the other side with step flashing
and shingles, you’re ready to put on the final piece. Apply a vertical
bead of caulk as shown.

Step 7:
Make the last piece of flashing. This is the brother to the one you
already put on the peak. Cut along the fold line, bend down the flap,
and press the pieces together along the caulk joint. Sink one nail into
the wall to secure the last piece.

Step 8:
Once you’re done, half of the flashing will be covered by shingles.
After the building paper and the siding go on, almost all of it will be
covered, which is one of the main reasons flashing has to be installed
carefully to begin with.

Photos by: Krysta Doerfler; drawings by: Clark Barre


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